Weekly Update – July 15, 2017

In this update, I’ll be covering two primary things: Convention Appearances and Future Devices. At the moment, I’m simply waiting on updates for the V3 orders, so there’s not much to go on with that.

Convention Appearances

There are three scheduled and confirmed conventions that we’ll be appearing at:

  • BronyCon, on August 11-13, in Baltimore Maryland. This will be the final appearance of Matchfire Electronics. Future appearances will be as Phoenixborn Technologies.
  • Nightmare Nights, on October 27-29, in Dallas Texas.
  • Retro Game Con, on November 18-19, in Syracuse NY.

At BronyCon, we will only have the DigiBadges. There just isn’t enough time or money to get anything else done. I’m hoping that we can get a case design by Nightmare Nights, but that’s going to be a lot of pressure on Alabaster, so I guarantee nothing. Hopefully we’ll have them ready by Retro Game Con, but again, no guarantees. It’s not that long after NMN. Beyond cases goes into the next category:

Future Devices

There are currently two devices slated for certain investigation, and a handful of others that are categorized under “Hopeful Thinking.”

For the first two, I have Product One and Product Two.

Product One is a “DigiBadge Light” – Those of you that were around for the Kickstarter for the V1 should remember this. The difference in the V1 Light and V1 Hacker, or V1 Standard, was primarily that the Light used the ATMega168 instead of the 328. Additionally, the 328 on the Hacker was socketed rather than soldered directly to the board, and the screen was similarly detachable.

For the new DigiBadge Light, there’s a slightly different goal in mind. The V3 DigiBadge is significantly more expensive than the V2, with a final price of $50 vs the V2’s $15. This is due to a number of things, but primarily it is due to components. I personally assembled the V2s, which meant that I saved money in two ways. First, I could use components from non-standard sources, without datasheets and sent to me in ziploc baggies. Second, I didn’t have to pay an assembly cost.

However, there was a significant issue: Of the 150 boards and components that I assembled, only 85 were in functioning order at BronyCon. This was a significant problem. I managed to fix a decent number after the convention, which I then sold at Nightmare Nights, but that should never have happened in the first place. The root of the issue is split between time and equipment. As it stands, time would have been extremely tight again, and getting the proper equipment is incredibly expensive and also takes up space I don’t really have.

Assembly costs are completely necessary and will end up saving me a ton of time and a decent amount of money, too. Fewer bad units means more potential sales. However, assembly requires a different set of components. While I could potentially use the dirt cheap components like I used for the V2, I would have to purchase them myself, wait for them to arrive to me, and then send them off to the assembly warehouse. That would waste a lot of time and the money spent shipping them would probably make it not worth doing. For components on the V3, I had the assembly warehouse source them. This meant some things which cost $0.10 each on the V2 cost almost $1.00 each on the V3. And there are significantly more components on the V3.

The Light version will be trimming down things on the V3 to make a more affordable version. My current plans have the Light having the same ESP-12 module as the V3, but some other features will be removed. There will be no on-board USB support, and I’m considering making the V2 run off of 3 AAAs and then through a LDO regulator to a lower 2.7v. The Light also won’t have the ATTiny power controller, instead using its on-board ADC to monitor power. Because the ESP8266 has built-in Flash memory, I am also considering removing the SD card slot. There are a lot of things to take into consideration, but hopefully I can get the device to a cost that’s a little bit lower.

Product Two is a direct result of the Light. Without the CP2102, there will need to be a way to program the Light. For that, I intend on making a CP2102 breakout board. Why, when there are so many readily available on places like Amazon?

For one, almost all of them do not break out the RTS pin, which makes programming the ESP8266 a bit more difficult than it needs to be. And those that do often have them in an awkward location. A CP2102 board designed with breaking out the RTS pin in mind would be a lot easier to use, and could be consistently available for purchase with the DigiBadge Light.

Another thing is that none of the CP2102 breakout boards I have seen have a voltage regulator. The CP2102 does have a built-in 3.3v regulator, but it is very small and can’t power much of anything. Putting a LDO on the board should be fairly cheap and easy to do, and gives a significant boost to available power.

The final reason is simple logistics. I want to be able to sell the means to program the DigiBadge Light right alongside the badge itself. Yes, I could purchase and re-sell the programmers, but I would have to mark up such devices in order to make it worth it. At that point, people could get it from where I got it, for cheaper. I don’t like to rip off my customers. Then there’s also the matter of supply. I would have to hope that the supplier decides to keep them in stock, and in decent quantities. Otherwise, I’d be in an interesting situation if they decide to discontinue it.

Creating my own CP2102 breakout allows me to have the features I want on it and also to ensure they are available.

What about “Hopeful Thinking?”

Well, there’s a handful of devices I would like to visit or re-visit. The LED Matrix pendant, for one, would be a great thing to re-try my hand at. I have most of the supplies to build them, but at this point in time I know I could design a better version. I would love to investigate a different battery and make the PCB only slightly larger than the LED Matrix.

I also want to visit further on the idea of a magnetic field viewer. It would function along the same principle as the Elektrosluch, except instead of directing two inputs into an audio output, it would direct an array into a visual output. It would require a lot of fiddling on my part, but it’s theoretically possible.

Another thing I want to work on is a remote control vehicle core. Due to the cost of getting anything with custom wireless certified, I would build it around something that’s already certified, and it might not be practical, but it’s something I want to look into at the very least.

That’s all for now. As always, you can catch me on Discord, on Twitter, or on Facebook.

Weekly Update – July 8, 2017

I had half of a thing typed out, but that was last night before I got the latest PCBs to test. And then, today, I had a friend’s wedding to go to, so I forgot to write anything in the morning.

However, there is good news! After a bit of bungling and several strokes of luck in a row, I managed to independently test every component of the PCBs. Good news is they work. Bad news is, I would like to fiddle some more, but I don’t have time. Total lead time from order is about four weeks, which means I have to order on Monday. No exceptions. It’s a little bit frightening. As each individual piece works, I’m not worried about the device not working. There are a few quirks that I’d rather not have, but they’re largely unavoidable.

First up is the boost regulator. These things have been the bane of my existence for an age. They’re small, symetrical, and hard to tell which pin is pin 1. So, unsurprisingly, many of them that I soldered on, were backwards. I ended up with two left, and with some spare PCBs I decided I’d put one on one way, and one the other. In the end, I managed to solder them both on the same way. Backwards. I was in the process of starting to attempt to remove one when I saw, lying on my work table, a little six-pin IC. I picked it up, looked at it, and while it could have been one or two other devices I’d used in the past with a similar pin configuration and size, I HAD managed to lose one of the regulators earlier. So, I shrugged, mostly guessed as to which pin was pin one, and soldered it on.

Turns out, it was the regulator, and it was in the correct orientation. Super lucky! The regulator works, but has one significant flaw – When disabled, it allows the battery voltage through. This is annoying because raw battery voltage IS enough to power the ESP module, but I can program the ESP to go into a deep sleep until the ATTiny tells it that it’s supposed to be awake.

I also had issues with the soldering SD slot on one device (Something went wrong with the other and I haven’t been able to get anything to upload to it). As with the boost regulator, I had used up all of my existing components. So, I improvised.

On the left: The designed SD card slot.
On the right: Don’t judge me, it works.

The one on the left has some issues with assembly that I couldn’t figure out, making it so that I was unable to upload code. The one on the right functions except for a missing boost regulator. The SD slot is an extra from the V2s, but it couldn’t lie flat due to the SD card’s decoupling capacitor. Somehow, the pins line up and it works. This will let me build the code for the final version while I wait for them to arrive.

There are a number of minor and insignificant tweaks to the PCB that I need to make, but those are primarily things on the silkscreen. Aside from putting in a trace to tie one of the ATTiny’s GPIOs to the board reset, there are no design changes.

Now, for other news!

I mentioned previously that Matchfire will be undergoing a name change. I’ve finally decided what that name will be. It’s going to take some time to implement – I’m not certain when it’ll go into effect and there’s a bunch of paperwork to do. In all likelihood, it’ll happen after BronyCon but before Nightmare Nights. I also currently don’t have a replacement logo, but I have commissioned one. You’ll see it pretty much as soon as it is done.

Oh, right. You probably want to know the name. Well, here you go!

Phoenixborn Technologies

Why Phoenixborn Technologies? Well, one, I like phoenixes. It also loosely ties into matches and fire, so there’s some connection. I also chose to swap out “Electronics” for “Technologies” both due to shortening (IE, Phoenixborn Tech) and the fact that not everything I deal with will be electronics. I will still primarily deal with electronics (It IS what I do best), but there’s space for plenty of other things under a “Technologies” umbrella.

I look forward to working as Phoenixborn Technologies. There will be warning as to when things change over to the new name – I need to take care of legal paperwork and other information before then. The Discord channel will stay the same, and if you follow the Facebook page or the Twitter feed you won’t have to worry about the name changes. However, for the latter two, the link to them will change.

Until next week!

 

Weekly Update: July 1, 2017

Late? It’s like a habit or something.

This week’s lateness is due to some problems at my day job, along with spending most of the day poking at the latest prototype.

Good news! It works… mostly. There are a number of issues with the board, some dumb, some not, but it serves its primary function.

The bad parts about the board:

  • The ESP-12E Module’s Ground pin ended up not being connected to the rest of the PCB’s ground plane.
  • Connecting GPIO 0 to a transistor to control the backlights ended up in failing to boot.
  • The resistor setup for the buttons ended up being too varied to be usable how I wanted it to.
  • The footprint for the boost regulator had pads that were too small and couldn’t be soldered by hand

However, those were either jury-rigged to work with the prototype, worked around, and all have been fixed on the next prototype:

  • Re-routing traces re-connected the ESP-12E Module’s ground pin to the rest of the ground plane.
  • The backlight will be controlled by the ATTiny84
  • The Resistor setup for the buttons is scrapped, and they’ll be detected and controlled via the ATTiny84
  • Footprints have been adjusted as necessary.

I spent most of my programming time working on the code for the ATTiny84, and I’m willing to call it functionally complete. I may go back and tweak or change some things, but it works as it sits. I’ll probably upload it to GitHub later in the week. It’s both a program for the ATTiny84 AND an Arduino library to communicate with it easily. I’m pretty happy with the latter – It was a lot easier than I expected, too!

And in non-DigiBadge news, Matchfire will be changing its name.

Why?

Well, I’ll toss a link at you: http://www.matchfire.com

These guys are a marketing firm, but they look a little too similar to this Matchfire. In the name of not causing confusion or friction down the road, I’ve decided to re-name my company. To what, I’m not sure, but it’ll be changed. If you have any suggestions, you can send them on Discord, on Twitter, or on Facebook.

Weekly Update: June 17&24, 2017

Two weeks in one? What gives, Andon?

Well, last week I was waiting for circuit boards to arrive, and didn’t touch any coding. So there’s that update.

This week’s a little late (Note that I’m writing this on Sunday the 25th…), in part because I was doing a bunch of things early in the week and also in part because I didn’t get the circuit boards until about mid week.

It turns out, the ESP8266 is significantly more sensitive to things like trace interference and signal disruption than ATMega328s. I know, what a surprise. The ESP8266 is running at 160MHz, and the ATMega328s on the V2 run at 8MHz. A 20x increase in run speed affects a lot, and the boards had a few design things that, well, shouldn’t be done.

Between yesterday and today, I managed to, hopefully, isolate the problem, with GREAT thanks to MintShard on Discord. Mint ran me through several tests and questions, and I was able to figure out how to get the board to start reliably.

Prototype 4 has quite a few changes from Prototype 3. Primarily, the trace width has been increased from a hair above 0.2mm to 0.254mm, and spacing between traces has been increased from 0.1mm to 0.15mm. Wider traces mean clearer signals, and more spacing means that there’s less around the traces to cause noise on the lines. Additionally, several traces – Primarily, the backlight traces, the culprit for the issues I was having – have been re-routed and their components moved to avoid anything running parallel on both the top and bottom side of the boards. The Backlight traces were running parallel to the traces for SPI MOSI, MISO, and CLK along with GPIO0, and from what Mint and I could figure out, this was preventing the ESP module from reading its own flash reliably and thus, it wouldn’t boot up. The final change to P4 over P3 is that the single GPIO header has been split to two separate headers. This allows for fewer traces to make cross-board marathons, as the ESP pins are close to the ESP, and the ATTiny pins are close to the ATTiny. Two other changes were also made to the GPIO headers. First, as they are broken out in the ATTiny’s ICSP header, the I2C lines and ATTiny’s GPIO3 have been omitted from the other headers. If you want to use them, you’ll need to use the ICSP header for it, so plan accordingly. Additionally, the ESP8266’s TX and RX lines, along with the DTR and RTS pins for the CP2102, have been broken out. This is primarily for my own benefit, as my reflow oven (Or perhaps my solder paste) doesn’t like to reflow properly, making it next to impossible to solder the CP2102 onto the board. Instead, I’ve been using an external CP2102 board, but that requires a few things being hacked on in places that aren’t really a good idea. I’ve already pulled a pad off, but luckily it was still attached to the trace and soldering a new resistor on is holding it in place. For now.

In Non-DigiBadge related news, I’ve embarked on a bit of a personal project. It’s ended up being far more complicated than it really needs to be, but oh well, it’s been fun. I’ve purchased an RC tank off of Amazon, and am now completely gutting the thing and replacing everything. The original design had a super-weak airsoft “cannon” that wouldn’t be able to fire through wet toilet paper, so I pulled that out. I intend on replacing it with a laser of some kind – Maybe just a standard diode, but the potential for a higher powered, longer-range, and potentially baloon-popping/paper burning laser is there. I’m also working on making the turret rotate via a stepper motor, and I’m replacing the motors that drive the treads with motors that’ll allow me to put encoders on them. This will let me have better control of speed and steering.

Other modifications will include a longer-range transmitter/receiver, which can theoretically go up to 1-1.5 miles (In a straight line, nothing blocking, etc. You know how it works), along with a camera transmitter setup so I can see what the thing is doing a mile and a half away. I don’t actually expect to go that far, as there’s no sidewalks or other safely traversable things nearby and despite it being shaped like a tank, it’s tiny. It can’t go overland. Maybe in some recently mowed grassy areas, but it is most definitely an indoor toy.

Anyway, that’s all for these two weeks. I should be getting the updated PCBs later this week. We’ll see how terrible of a job I did on them as well. As always, you can catch me over on Discord, on Twitter, or on Facebook.

Weekly Update: June 10, 2017

One step forward, one step back, and maybe a step or two to the side.

No, we’re not dancing. I’m describing the power for the V3. With BronyCon approaching faster than I’d like – 9 weeks away from now – I can’t really take too much time to re-design things. I tried two things: One, a separate power supply board, and Two, using a single buck/boost regulator.

Neither of those are going to happen.

The separate power supply board is simply too expensive to start off with. If I was getting 500 of them, that wouldn’t be an issue, but with a production run of around 100 units, it’s about 3x more expensive than it should be. That said, an updated V3, when I have the opportunities to purchase in larger quantities, may feature a separate power supply board. Additionally, such a power supply board would be available separately for whatever sort of crazy contraptions you can think up. I AM going to be integrating most of the power supply board’s design into the V3 – That is, the ATTiny84 for control and additional GPIO and battery monitoring.

The voltage regulators, on the other hand, are going back to the ones that have been tested and I know work. The single buck/boost one I simply could not get functioning. If that was an issue with the soldering, or board design, or something else, I don’t know – And I don’t really have the time to figure that out. Both of the other regulators I have tested and work fine. Thankfully, there isn’t much of a price difference, it’s just a matter of squeezing them onto the board. Which I’ve already done.

In other news, it seems unlikely that there will be a case ready for BronyCon. While I really hope this next design will be the one I get a fully functioning prototype out of, I’ve said that for the other ones, too. I’ll be honest – There is entirely a possibility that the V3 will not be ready before BronyCon. I really doubt that will happen – Especially with having someone else manufacture them – but it IS possible that things just don’t work out. That said, there’s still about six weeks to work with, so I’m not terribly worried yet. I’ve already placed an order for more prototypes, so right now I’m just waiting for them.

At this point, I’m sure you know the drill. DiscordTwitterFacebook.

Weekly Update: June 3, 2017

Hey guys!

I’m late again. Was working on the latest V3 prototype last night and suddenly it was 3 in the morning. Oops. At least I grabbed a shiny picture:

So, what makes this different from the previous versions? Well, pretty much everything. It’s largely the same circuitry, but everything’s been moved around and reorganized to fit better and have fewer traces having to go entirely across the PCB just to go back to where they started. There are a few changes, though.

First and foremost, I’ve decided to try and make a separate “PowerBoard” for the device. This consists of a boost-buck regulator instead of two separate regulators, plus an ATTiny84 to control it. The ATTiny84 has 11 GPIO pins, of which two are being used for I2C communication with the ESP8266, one is being used for monitoring battery voltage, and the last one is being used to control the voltage regulator. This leaves seven GPIO pins free to use for the device the PowerBoard is attached to. The V3 ties one of them to a button, to turn the power back on when that button is pressed. The ATTiny84 runs directly off of the battery power – or USB power if it’s available – so is, essentially, always on and monitoring the inputs. Its power consumption is fairly minimal, and will be minimized as much as possible. It’ll likely be put into a sleep state when the regulator is off, turning it back on when it’s awoken.

The PowerBoard being an I2C device does a few good things for the V3 board. First, as it monitors the battery voltage, the I2C ADC can be removed. That ADC was, roughly about the price of the ATTiny84. The single voltage regulator instead of two is also about even in terms of price. Additionally, since the PowerBoard is an I2C device and we’re not controlling the voltage regulator directly from the ESP8266, we’ve freed up a GPIO pin on the ESP. That has now been tied in to a transistor which controls the backlight, removing the need for the I2C Digital Potentiometer.

In addition to that, there’s the six unused GPIO pins from the ATTiny84 that are broken out, in addition to an ICSP header for programming said ATTiny84. In all, the 18-pin breakout header has pins for all three voltages: +5v USB power, +3.3V Regulated power, and the Battery raw voltage. The regulator can handle anything from 1.8 to 5.5v, making a LiPo battery perfectly suitable (Although I’d recommend adjusting the ATTiny84’s programming to not discharge it too much. And there’s no charging circuit). There’s also two ground pins, the ESP’s three SPI pins, the two I2C lines, the ESP’s ADC line (Which is linked to the buttons, but with the right resistors you can add more. Or you can read them from something else), and all seven of the PowerBoard’s GPIO pins. One of them is linked to the power button, but this can allow for an external wakeup from another device.

The PowerBoard also allows for a great deal of versatility in V3 design. If I wanted to make a LiPo powered V3, it would only require changing the battery and a different PowerBoard with a charging circuit included. If I decided to redesign with a more robust and powerful regulator, it would only require changing the PowerBoard.

I’ve ordered some prototype PCBs for the PowerBoard, which will let me test the voltage regulator circuit independent of the V3, and I’ve inquired into what would be necessary for manufacturing it. It may turn out to be too expensive to do in this fashion, but at the very least I’ll have the circuit tested and not have to worry about that on the V3.

Until next week, you can find me on Discord, on Twitter, and/or Facebook.

Weekly Update: May 27, 2017

So, this one’s a bit late. I apologize. It’s been a long weekend at my primary job and it’s worn me out.

On the plus side, that’s now over, AND I have three days off this week. Once my DigiKey order arrives, I’ll be able to hop into some more testing. And speaking of testing – A major landmark in this past week! I managed to upload code to the ESP-12 on the new board. It looks a bit funky, as I had to horridly cobble on some headers into places where they were never designed to be in order to bypass the CP2102 chip, but it worked.

Look at those horridly-cobbled-on headers!I also soldered on the SD card slot, and that worked mostly flawlessly too. The test program picked up the SD card and files just fine, and while a separate one didn’t I’m not too bothered. The SD card is also much easier to remove, unlike the first prototype where it was incredibly difficult. As you can see, it’ll have to be moved to the side some to allow for proper access to the mount hole, but that’s a minor issue.

However, I ran across two issues when attempting to put the rest of the devices on the badge: One, I forgot to order the 1% resistors for the buttons (Oops…), and two: It now isn’t uploading any more programming. I’m not entirely sure at which point the uploading failed, so I’ll have to go back through step by step and test things as I go to see where things went wrong.

Additionally, I discovered an issue in the way the voltage regulator(s) were set up. While they seemed to be functioning (I only managed to test the USB regulator), they wouldn’t stay on even when the ESP was programmed to keep them on. So I’ve begun looking at ways around this issue. Currently, I’m poking through a design that uses an ATTiny running directly off of the battery or USB power (Yay diodes!). The ATTiny can be run as an I2C slave, meaning no extra pin usage on the ESP-12 – In fact, what would have been the power line would now be a free GPIO line. I’ve done some testing with the ATTiny85V that I have and it looks good so far. The ATTiny85V has just barely the number of wires I would need, though, and for curiosity’s sake I looked into the ATTiny84. The 84A has 11 I/O pins to the 85V’s 5, and was actually slightly cheaper on DigiKey. I sent a request to the PCB Manufacturer to get the price of the 84 to see if they can acquire it at a similar price. Additionally, if I use the 84, I could potentially drop the digital potentiometer and drive the backlights from the 84. The digital potentiometer isn’t extremely expensive, but being able to offset the additional price of the 84 some would be great.

I have a DigiKey order that I’m waiting on that has a few 84s to experiment with along with the 1% resistors. I’ll be designing a new PCB to get prototypes of once I have a few more things figured out and adjusted, as there are a handful of things that didn’t line up on their footprints quite so nicely.

If you want to yell at me for being extremely late with this update, you can find me on Discord, on Twitter, and/or Facebook.

Weekly Update: May 20, 2017

So.

I did this:

My reflow oven isn’t the best, so running it on the automatic settings generally doesn’t work. Putting it on manual typically works like a charm. Unless you set it to heat, step out of the room, and get distracted. I think the thing was well over 300C, probably 350C, before I caught it. As you can see, that’s well beyond rated temperatures. Also, it smelled. Oh boy, did it smell.

Anyway, that was the first test of the V3 Prototype 2 board. Getting the CP2102 soldered on correctly is being a complete bear, so I’m likely to bypass it for the next test, just to make sure everything else is working correctly. I only have one more ESP8266 module not attached to something, so if I fry this one I’ll have to wait until Monday when more arrive.

Honestly, at this point, the biggest holdup is the CP2102. Getting it to solder properly has been a bear. I have a new, fine-point tip ordered for my soldering iron that may help with any bridges that form, but as long as I can get the device itself working, I’m less concerned about the UART bridge. Thankfully, the minimal equipment to test is, well, very minimal – A handful of resistors, two transistors, and the ESP12 module. That’s enough to make sure the ESP’s wired correctly, and once that is confirmed I can go from there.

Now that I have the boards, I’ll be back to prototyping and testing, and I expect a more substantial update next week. You can find me on Discord, on Twitter, and/or Facebook before then.

Weekly Update: May 13, 2017

Updates, updates, updates!

Last week I mentioned the project I was working on for the lightsaber interior. I can happily say that they are all assembled, tested, and working and will be shipped out soon. Look, I even have a picture!

I managed to impress myself with this one, as usually there’s at least one device that needs to be fixed or tweaked to make it work. These guys all worked like a charm, first time. Granted, they’re super simple, consisting of an ATTiny85, a 10k ohm resistor, and a MOSFET, but I’ve learned to never underestimate my ability to make some stupid mistake and put something in backwards.

The test PCBs for the V3 won’t be here until Monday, and given the way things are going that means I probably won’t be able to touch them until Wednesday. I’ve been busy at my regular job (I don’t recommend working in a grocery store during the holidays… and there are a lot more of them than you think), so haven’t had a chance to really fiddle with the code much either.

So instead, I want to talk about the next product I want to develop, once I have the funds and the V3 is finished. It’ll take a significant amount of time to work out, but I’ll be able to work off of the V3 as a base to get it working a lot quicker. It’s also something that Michael (Who I made the ATTiny/MOSFET boards for) has been prodding me for a while to make.

What is it? Why, a tricorder! To be fair, it’s not actually a tricorder from Star Trek, but it is along similar lines. Simply put, I’m going to be taking as many sensors as I can get my hands on and jamming them into a single handheld device. An accelerometer, magnetometer (AKA, a compass), GPS unit, temperature and humidity, barometric pressure, a variety of gas detection sensors, distance measurements… While this list includes a number of things I want to include, it doesn’t include everything. And just because something is on this list doesn’t mean it’ll be on the final board. I do intend on having some designated expansion slots on the device as well, as there are some things that are simply too expensive to include in a base device. Take, for example, the LinkSprite JPEG Color Camera – It can output to an RCA display, and can also take JPEG pictures. Incidentally, the ESP8266 can display JPEG pictures, allowing it to display directly the images this camera takes. It’d be a cool addition, but not worthy of adding $50 to the pricetag. On the other hand, if someone wants to add it to their device, that’s  great!

I’ll be back to talking about the V3 next week. You can ask me questions about the V3, the ATTiny/MOSFET, the tricorder, or any number of things on Discord, on Twitter, and/or Facebook! See you next week!

Weekly Update: May 6, 2017

Greetings, everyone, and welcome back!

This week, we have a handful of things to talk about. I did the “last” testing required to get the V3 design to where I could send it off to get another set of prototypes printed. I also worked a little on the code, getting the badge code and Pride Flag code functioning. I still have to re-implement image and slideshow modes, along with rebuilding the menu system, but that can take some time to be done. I also am having issues with GPIO0 on this device, but even with those issues I can still upload code so I’m not terribly worried. Just annoyed. Hopefully those PCBs, along with the others, won’t take terribly long to get here so I can start testing them out.

On Sunday I mentioned a secondary project. This one requires a little bit of explanation, since while it’s a simple device, it’s incredibly specific in its purpose and design. My friend Michael is part of the Golden Gate Knights, a group of Star Wars Lightsaber enthusiasts who train in the proper methods of saber combat and stage choreography. Michael is working on a saber for a friend of his, and wants to introduce a slight flicker to the blade. These blades aren’t your typical saber blades, because as mentioned in their web page, blades with LEDs going their whole length tend to have LEDs die under repeated impact. Instead, they use high-powered LEDs at the hilt – Enough to require a heatsink and a significant power supply.

So, while the requirement was fairly straightforward – Apply PWM to the feed of one of the LEDs – the power required made it outside of almost all “Standard” approaches. To that end, he contacted me, seeing if I had any input. My design was fairly simple – As the LED uses close to 3v of power, I can hijack that to run an ATTiny85. The ATTiny then runs its PWM output to a MOSFET, which controls the LED. I ordered the parts to prototype it, confirmed the design worked, and then sent off for the PCBs. The device is super simple – ATTiny85, a 10k resistor, and a MOSFET, along with programming pins, power pins, and LED pins. This device won’t be on the store soon, as the V3 is taking priority funding, but it’ll be there eventually. I have a bunch of ideas for saber bits and bobs that I’ve tossed back and forth with Michael, so don’t be surprised if something else shows up, too. If you have any ideas, feel free to toss them out. And, if you want something custom built, I’m completely down for that as well. It’s not always cheap – Michael purchased the entire production run – but I’m willing to work with you to see what we can build. Especially if I can sell it later.

That’s all for now. As always, you can hit us up on Discord, on Twitter, and/or  Facebook!