Never Finished Means Always Improving

When I set about to design the Verison 2 of the DigiBadge, I had no expectations that this would be the final end-of-the-line product. I expected to learn a lot, to experiment a lot, and to be able to do a lot more. So far, I have exceeded my expectations.

With that in mind, I’m going to go ahead and ‘Announce’ the Version 3 badge. It won’t be as radical a change as the V1 was from the V2, but there will be significant changes. I’ve talked before about adding the SPI Flash card to it, for some persistent data storage. This was initially going to be part of a Version 2+, but things have changed enough to warrant it being called the Version 3.

In addition to the flash memory storage, there will also be a more pins freed up, starting with a change to the control stick input. Initially, I had the control stick running through a bunch of resistors to a single analog input, with each direction being a different resistance. I couldn’t get that working and ended up using five direct inputs instead. The Version 3 will revisit this single analog input, freeing up four other pins. Another pin will be freed by tieing the screen’s Reset pin to the board’s Reset, but then that pin will be immediately taken by the SPI Flash’s CS line. I’ll be trying to break out these pins in the board, but space is limited, so I may not be able to do so.

Speaking of space, though, this leads me to the most significant change. The Version 2 uses two AAA batteries. Why? Well, because 3v is a perfectly acceptable voltage to run pretty much everything at. And it provides decent enough battery life, too. But two AAA batteries are large. Huge, even. They take up about 2/3 of the back of the PCB. I did some thinking, did some checking, and it’s easily affordable to change this.

In series, two batteries provide double the voltage at the same capacity. Two AAA batteries have roughly 1200 mAh of capacity… but so does one, just at 1.5v instead. So, I thought – Maybe I could include a boost regulator. After a bit of searching, it turns out that yes, I can, without much additional expense either. This will do two significant things. One, it’ll provide a nice, solid power state for the board at all times until it dies. This means no more screen dimming. No more worrying about the SD card going below its proper voltage threshold. Two, it’ll allow a lot more of the battery to be used. Currently, the Version 2 badge drops below useful power at about 2.7 volts, or 1.35 volts per cell. Realistically speaking, there’s a TON of power left in the battery – Maybe somewhere between 3-4x as much. The voltage regulator I’m currently looking at goes down to 0.8 volts. While it will use more power, I don’t expect to see much of a difference in expected lifespan.

The Version 3 will fit into the same case as the Version 2, which is why I mentioned those size restraints above. However, I AM working on something for the more adventurous among you: The return of the ‘Hacker’ Badge.

The Hacker Badge will be a significant change from the Version 3’s normal layout. It’ll be larger. A bit larger. It’ll feature the same components, but in a different manner. First, the nav stick will be moved to the front. Second, every pin that can be broken out will. There will be the FTDI connector, along with an ISCP header and headers for the digital pins and analog pins that are free, aproxamately 4-5 of each. It’ll have a different power switch, which will make Alabaster a lot happier in designing a case for it.

There are also a few other devices I’ve been working on, most notably the Super badge which I’ve covered before. I’ve also designed a breakout board for the SPI flash which I’m using, and an I2C controller for a MUX chip, mostly just because I can.

I’ll keep you guys updated with how things go!


It’s a bird! It’s a plane! It’s the Super Badge!

Greetings, everyone! Sorry I’ve been so quiet lately. After BronyCon I had some family issues that took up a large amount of the week after that. Since then, I’ve been mostly relaxing and playing large amounts of Fallout. But, I haven’t been entirely lazy. I’ve been mulling about doing a “Super” DigiBadge – A larger one with many more features, but at a higher, potentially significantly higher, price point. After BronyCon, Purple Tinker – The founder of BronyCon and a, well, tinker, hopped on our Discord Chat (Yes, that’s a link – Join us!) and asked about… a larger DigiBadge with more features. The conversation that ensued was glorious, with loads of ideas bouncing back and forth.

The biggest issue with the screens for the Super are that they require a VERY large number of pins. Put one on the 328 and you have just about nothing left. The obvious solution is to find a screen that uses fewer pins. We didn’t go for the obvious solution, because while price is less of an issue, it’s still a huge motivator. Instead, we went for the possibly-insane but workable solution of two microcontrollers on the same board. An ATMega328 will drive the screen, and will be programmed to accept commands to display things. Essentially, it’ll be the GPU of the system.

The real brains of the project will be an ATMega32u4, the same that is found in the Arduino Pro Micro. In addition to having 3 additional Digital pins over the 328 (Bringing the total to 16), the 32u4 also allows for six of those digital pins to be used as analog pins, bringing the usable number of analog pins to 11. That’s not even the biggest feature. That belongs to the fact that the 32u4 is USB-Native. What does this mean? You won’t need a special programming chip to interface with the device, making it significantly easier to program.

After we figured out how the project would work, we started figuring out what sort of other goodies we could throw in there. Below is the current list of features that I’m planning on putting on the Super, but be aware that it will likely change before the everything is said and done:

  • 2.8″ TFT LCD screen
    • Touchscreen, too!
  • MicroSD card slot
  • ATMega328 for GPU
    • FTDI Connection will be available for reprogramming
  • ATMega32u4 for CPU
    • USB-Native support for reprogramming the ATMega32u4
    • All unused pins for both microcontrollers will be broken out
  • 2500 mAh 3.7v LiPo Battery
    • Including charging circuit
    • Will charge if Super is plugged in but off.
  • 3.3v Regulator
    • No more screen dimming as the battery fades
  • USB Micro port for programming and charging.
    • Charge on the go with your phone’s charger!
  • 1Mb on-board flash storage for saving settings
    • Set a “Favorite” badge to default to.
    • Start to a “Favorite” image with an Art Card
    • Set and display your name!
  • 3-Channel Multiplexer/Demultiplexer
    • Both chips can share the SPI bus!

That last bit is a late addition to the board. Most of the Arduino-to-Arduino communications solutions out there are one-way. I wanted to have the 32u4 have access to the SD card, but the 328, being the GPU, would also need access to it. I’d have to code in a way to get information from the SD card, into one ATMega, and then to the other ATMega. This seemed a little excessive. The solution is a Multiplexer/Demultiplexer or MUX chip. This chip allows easy switching for three channels of communication (Clock, MOSI, MISO) between two sources to one destination – Or from one source to two destinations. And, it can all be controlled via the 328, so the 32u4 doesn’t even lose any pins, aside from those used for communicating with the 328 and the SPI pins. But those were going to be used anyway. The 32u4 would simply send a command to the 328 saying it wants the SD card, and the 328 would set the MUX appropriately and then use one of its own pins as the CS pin.

We had explored some other options for the boards, such as Bluetooth or WiFi capabilities – But then we run afoul of FCC regulations. Currently, Matchfire boards fall under the “Subassembly” category, making them exempt from FCC certification. If the FCC were to tell us that they didn’t comply with the Subassembly category, certifying the boards with the FCC would cost somewhere between $1000-$2000, which is a lot but not terrible. That all changes when you start throwing around wireless transmission. If you’re building your own wireless device, you have to get it certified. There’s a few caveats to that, but one of those is that you can’t make more than five boards, and another is that you can’t advertise them for sale. Certifying such a device runs somewhere between $10,000 to $25,000. Or more. It’s expensive, and Matchfire does not make enough money to pay for that sort of thing. They’re a little more lenient when you’re using a pre-built wireless transmitter, but those are a bit more expensive and outside of the price range of what we’d like for default inclusion. I plan on designing around users being able to include one of those, but it would have to be purchased separately.

Currently, I’m guessing, and only guessing, that the purchase price for these will be somewhere between $35 and $40.

The RoboPony – An overview of the hopes and dreams of this artificial miniature equine

Good afternoon, fillies and gentlecolts!

After my successes yesterday with getting the Raspberry Pi to control the servos, I’ve decided to do a bit of a run-down on just what the RoboPony is, and what I hope it will do.

The RoboPony is exactly what it sounds like – A robot pony. A walking, talking, robot pony. Well, hopefully walking. It’ll have articulated legs and head, but I’ll be honest – I’m not 100% certain that I will be able to make it walk. However! As with everything else we make here, the code will be open source – If I can’t make it walk, I’m sure someone will. And the design should be easy enough that even the non-technical people should be able to update the code fairly easily.

I had the concept of the RoboPony a few months ago, but mostly as a “Wouldn’t it be cool to do this?” idea. At that time, I was thinking of using an Arduino and an Emic2 text-to-speech card. At the time, that was easier for me to code and a bit cheaper to work with than, say, a Raspberry Pi.

Then, in November, the Raspberry Pi Zero came out. That literally changed everything. Instead of a $50 Emic board plus whatever Arduino board I would have to create, along with the servo control and sensors, I’d be able to use an off-the-shelf (And free!) text-to-speech program on a $5 computer, along with a companion board that would have all of the additional things anyway. The Raspberry Pi can run Python, which is the only programming language I can claim any sort of proficiency with (Even then, though, I’m not a stellar programmer. I can get Python and Arduino programs to work, but it’s not exactly graceful).

I then began figuring out just what I could do with a Robot Pony. I’ve settled on a few things for it:

  1. PCA9685 I2C PWM/Servo Controller. This allows me to control the 10 servos for the RoboPony, along with the RGB LEDs for the pony’s eyes.
  2. MCP 3008 Analog-to-Digital Converter. This connects to the IR Rangefinder mounted in the RoboPony’s head, and also allows for monitoring the battery voltage levels.
  3. ADXL345 I2C Acceleromoter. Because of the components involved, this will be the Adafruit Board – A few of those components are a bit difficult to solder by hand, and I don’t have the tools to do anything but solder by hand. It’s also an I2C device that has a nice Python tutorial, which should let me get it working fairly easily.
  4. DHT11 Temperature and Humidity sensor. While it’s not I2C, SPI, or any other “Standard” protocol, the DHT11 is fairly easy to interact with using a Raspberry Pi.
  5. DS1307 Real-Time Clock. Being another I2C device made this a lot easier to integrate with the other components.
  6. Two 5-volt regulators – One for the servos, and one for the Pi + everything else. While powering a Pi through the GPIO pins has its issues, these issues can be fixed by a properly designed device. Separating the power to the servos also allows for them to be as noisy as they want to be without causing any issues to the rest of the board. Both regulators are powered by six AA batteries providing anywhere from 6-9v, depending on the type and charge state of the batteries.

There are a bunch of neat things that this is capable of doing. The RoboPony will monitor its battery voltage, and shut itself down if it is too low. It will also be able to tell if it’s been picked up, moved, or fallen over thanks to the accelerometer. It will know the time, the temperature, and the humidity, and will also know when something moves in front of it – or, provided I can get it to move itself, if it’ll run into something.

And, best of all, since it can talk via the Text to Speech program, the RoboPony can say things about all of this. So far, I plan on having it state the time, temperature, and humidity every 15 minutes (Hour, 15 past, half past, 45 past), greet things that approach, yell at things that get too close or stay too close, say something when it’s picked up and/or falls over, and warnings when battery voltage gets too low.

The voice is also software controlled, meaning it can be tweaked to some degree to provide different RoboPony units with different voices. This also extends to what the RoboPony says – These are simple text files that can be easily modified and changed to make the RoboPony speak different things.

It’s been, so far, an extremely fun project and I’m definitely enjoying working on it. My biggest concern right now is that the Raspberry Pi Zero is super popular – They’re out of stock pretty much everywhere. This means that I might have to use a different Raspberry Pi unit, which is significantly more expensive – Between $25-$40 per unit instead of $5. With this in mind, and the fact that the board isn’t complete yet (While writing this, I discovered that one of the voltage regulators was only rated for 6v in. Which simply won’t work), I can’t give an exact price for individual RoboPony units, but I expect it’ll be between $150 and $200. They’re cheaper in bulk, yes, but that’s also a lot more expensive for me to purchase the parts, and a lot more time consuming for me to make. We’ll see how it goes!

And to end off this post, I’ll be giving you an image of the RoboPony Base Board. This is what’ll attach to the Raspberry Pi – There’ll be another board in the head, with the eye LEDs, the speaker, and the distance sensor, along with an audio-out jack if you want to use your RoboPony as, say, a music player.

Lots of tiny circuits.

If at first you don’t succeed – That probably means you did something wrong.

Recently, I’ve had to do a number of complete redesigns of the Version 2 DigiBadge board. Most of them were due to irritating things outside of my control, but I don’t mind too much. Every one of them found another error in the circuit board, and had I actually had those boards printed, I would have needed to re-print them.

Among the errors I found:

  • TFT screen’s reset tied to the microcontroller reset. This has to be set to a pin in order to have the screen work.
  • Power switch only worked for AAA battery. If there was a LiPo battery, it would have simply powered the board regardless of switch setting.
  • A battery selection jumper was unneeded – Connecting in a different fashion allows it to be completely removed.
  • The “Universal” programming connector was the wrong size (Largely irrelevant now, though. See later!)

There’s probably a few other errors I’ve missed, but they were relatively minor ones.

I have also found some wonderful devices that’ll let me burn the bootloader and program the microcontrollers without soldering them to the board. This makes the Universal Programming Board and Universal Breakout Board a little obsolete – They were primarily for me to be able to program the boards without soldering extra pins on. Getting rid of these also makes it easier for the end user to reprogram them. They don’t need any additional special hardware from me – For the DigiBadge, there’ll be an FTDI header just like the Version 1. It won’t come with any pins soldered on, but they’ll be easily added. For the Pendant, there’s be a spot to solder on a six-pin ICSP header.

Now, the Pendant and DigiBadge have also been changed completely from their previous versions.

I was having some issues getting the WS2812 LEDs to work with the version of the Pendant I had. It turns out that I was missing a few components. While I could have added them on fairly easily, there wasn’t exactly a lot of space on the pendant to put them. I began looking around and found two things that were great: the ATTiny 861 microcontroller and an RGB LED that fit quite a few specifications.

For the ATTiny861, it has 15 I/O pins. I lose one of these because I need an analog reference to pull the analog input from the sensors. One or two more will go to sensor readings. The last 12 will go to the LEDs – Four of them, placed in the corners. While with the WS2812 LEDs I could get a theoretically-unlimited number with two pins, standard LEDs require one pin per color. This means I can get a maximum of 4 LEDs if I want any inputs at all. However, this isn’t all negative – I can fit the larger microcontroller onto the board easier, and four LEDs instead of three increases the battery life. Additionally, it’s fewer components to solder on to the board, making it easier to assemble.

For the LEDs, I found some really good ones – Their operating voltage for the Blue and Green channels is 3.0v, meaning I don’t have to put any current-limiting resistors on those two channels. This removes 8 components I’d otherwise need for a normal RGB LED. I’ll still need a resistor for the Red channel, but I’d have needed a capacitor for each of the WS2812s anyway, so this isn’t an issue.

With the DigiBadge reorganizations, it allows for, well, a LOT. And it also makes things a lot easier for everyone.

I was originally trying to shove everything onto one board, and being marginally successful at it, too. But there was a lot of stuff, and not a lot of board. I had to go back and forth with the manufacturer for the latest version, as there was always SOMETHING too close to something else. I eventually decided to cancel that order and re-design it, when I went back to an idea I had way at the beginning: Backpacks for the batteries. There’d be a LiPo backpack, and a AAA backpack. They’d be able to be swapped out super-easily via headers, and those same headers would allow for people to build their own add-ons to the board. Both the LiPo and AAA backpacks will break the additional pins for the ATMega328 chip out to empty headers, so users can solder their own header pins on, or attach wires directly.

One of the reasons I hadn’t taken this approach at first was both cost and size. The header pins of the type I need to use aren’t typically carried by my US source of components, but I managed to find another source that’s selling them for a good price, making it possible to do. Additionally, I’ve found that I can purchase the LiPo batteries I need for the Plus boards to be completely LiPo-powered in quantities greater than 2, meaning I don’t have to worry about making the Plus boards compatible with both LiPo AND AAA. This does make them a little more expensive, but I think it’s worth it.

I’ve also decided that the DigiBadge V2 will forego the different microcontrollers and simply use an ATMega 328. This, combined with the backpacks, makes things a TON easier for me. While I’m still waiting on the BronyCon vendor decision (That won’t be until the end of this month), I’ve been running numbers and things. Before, I’d have to know how many of each type of board I’d be making – The Plus boards with their LiPo chargers, SD card slots, and voltage regulators would have to be completely separate from the Basic boards. Now, though, all boards are “Basic” boards – The Plus part is simply an add-on. So I can make a bunch of Basic boards, and then make a bunch of Plus backpacks. If someone wants a Plus board, they get the Basic with a Plus pack. It’s no difference for my assembly, and keeps inventory and other things really simple.

As far as size of the DigiBadge goes, I think I can work some tricks in and hopefully cleverly arrange things so that instead of the batteries sitting on the outside of the board like they did for the Version 1, they’ll be sandwitched between the two circuit boards. It’s something I’ll have to play with and see how it works and how I like it.

Currently, I have one version of the Pendant, a version of the Temperature/Humidity monitor, and a simple test project that should be on their way to me soon and in my hands in a few days. I’ll post an update once I’ve got them and had a chance to test them!

For now, though, I’m going to go back to coding RoboPony. Try not to break anything while I’m distracted.

Streaming Circuits!

Good afternoon, everyone!

I’ve taken to streaming some of my circuit designing sessions via my picarto channel. Currently, I have no set schedule for streaming, but if you subscribe via the Picarto site, you can have them send you e-mails when I’m streaming.

I’ve also begun recording the streams as well. I’ve only recorded one so far, which can be found here, but you can see any of my stream recordings at the Matchfire YouTube Channel. The recordings will be sped up and have a little trimming done, as I don’t think you really need to watch four hours of circuit designing in real-time. Plus, I spend a decent amount of time looking at datasheets, which the stream doesn’t pick up (It only does my primary monitor). Alabaster and I are still working out some of the stuff for videos (Intros and the like), so it’s not exactly pretty at the moment, but we’re working on that.

I’ll keep you all posted on when I’m going to be doing new streams! Keep an eye out on both the Matchfire Twitter and my personal twitter for a heads up.


We’re not dead!

We’re not dead, I swear!

It’s the holiday season here in the US, with Haloween being followed by Thanksgiving being followed by Christmas in a few days and then New Years a week after. My day job is at a bakery in a grocery store, and everybody wants their food. That being said, I haven’t been slacking with development, just with updating people about developments. Oops.


First up is the “Patreon” pendant. I’ve decided that, for now, we’re not going to do any Patreon exclusive things. Considering the lack of interest in a Patreon, we’ll be putting the entire thing on the back burner for a bit. This does NOT mean I’m not working on the pendant, though! Quite the opposite.

The first prototype of the pendant had a few issues. Primarily, it used the wrong footprint for the ATTiny85 microcontroller, so the one it was designed for didn’t fit. Secondly, I learned to check the sizes of the resistors and capacitors I was using. While I did learn that you can hand-solder even the tiniest of components, it’s not easy. There were a few of a size that, while still small, was fairly decent to work with. This led to me redesigning the pendant and the V2 Digibadge (More on that in a bit) with all of the tiny components being this size. I’ve received prototype 2 PCBs for both the pendant and the V2 badge, but it’ll be after Christmas before I get the chance to test them out.

I’ve also brainstormed a few ideas for other types of pendants, and while I haven’t had the chance to design the boards for them, I can tell you what they are:

  1. Mic-Based Pendant. The original design, using a small microphone to pick up sounds and adjust the LEDs accordingly.
  2. Photocell-Based Pendant. This would use one or more photocells to detect the brightness of light on the pendant and adjust the LEDs in response.
  3. Temperature-Based Pendant. A small thermometer would adjust the LEDs in response to local temperature.
  4. Light Color-Based Pendant. A sensor would detect the intensity of specific colors of light, and adjust the LEDs in some manner.
  5. Random-Based Pendant. A pendant with no sensor, that would change the LEDs in a random manner.
  6. Biometric-Based Pendant. There’s a contactless IR thermometer that would be mounted on the back, reading the temperature of the wearer. This would determine the LEDs.

In addition, I am looking into the possibility of adding support for a Pulse Sensor to the pendant, allowing it to react to the wearer’s heartbeat. This could be especially neat with the Biometric Pendant.

Reprogramming the pendants would require some external hardware – The ATTiny85 needs a different programmer than the standard ATMega chips I’ve used in the DigiBadges. They are, however, designed to be used with a “Universal Programming Board” – I’ll explain this more below, with the V2.

DigiBadge V2

I’ve been working at the Version 2 of the DigiBadge, and after finding a source for the screens that aren’t on a PCB, it’s smaller and sleeker than the Version 1. I’ve changed quite a few things from Version 1 as well.

The first change is fairly simple. Instead of using a power switch to turn the badge on and then a button to cycle through the badges, this version combines them into a four-position button. One position is off, and the other three correspond to individual badges. Selecting the badge you want is now super-simple.

My second change is aimed at cost. The Version 1 of the digibadge “Standard” kit cost Kickstarter backers $15 each, and that was barely scraping by on costs on my end. The (basic) Version 2’s targeted sale cost is $10, and that’s with a profit that we can utilize to fund our further developments. How did I do this? Well, it’s a combination of things:

  1. Surface mount components. A lot harder to solder, but quite a bit cheaper.
  2. Stripping out the voltage regulator. The badge can run on 2 AA batteries just fine, and this will actually extend the life a small amount by removing those inefficiencies.
  3. Stripping out extra components – The Basic V2 badge doesn’t need a crystal, nor an SD card, nor an FTDI connector. None of those are included standard.

You may note that this makes the Version 2 a bit unappealing to hackers. It doesn’t have a lot of the cool bells and whistles, and without an FTDI connector then how do you program it? Never fear, for I have planned for that as well. There are two add-ons that can be done for the Version 2. One adds a connector for LiPo rechargeable batteries, along with a recharging circuit and voltage regulator. While I won’t sell you the batteries (They’re a hassle to get and ship in quantities higher than 2), they’re easily acquired via Sparkfun, Adafruit, or your local gadget store. The charging circuit includes a USB Micro socket, so you can plug the badge into a wall and go.

The other add-on is a “Plus” pack. It adds back an 8MHz crystal and an SD card. Depending on what Microprocessor I go with, it may upgrade that as well. At the moment, I’m not sure which Microcontroller I’ll be using for the badge, and I may go with having all of them be the “Upgraded” one. We’ll see.

As far as reprogramming goes, I’ve been working on a “Universal Programming Board.” This is, ideally, a board that you plug into your computer, then plug in your gadget, and program away. Each of my designs have used the same connector with a specific pinout, and while currently the UPB is just a breakout for the connector, I would like to include a FTDI chip on it for ease of use for the DigiBadge and a currently-secret project that I have, plus any other future ATMega168/328 projects. I’m also looking into how to use that FTDI chip to program the ATTiny 85 chips on the Pendants, for even more ease of use.

Secret Project: Robo-Pony!

This is a project that I’ve been working on for some time now, both in throwing concepts around and, more recently, actually figuring out how the thing will work. There’s still a long way to go with it, but I feel confident enough that it will become a reality that I can now share it with you.

What is the Robo-Pony?

The Robo-Pony is a Raspberry Pi Zero powered robot. As far as robots go, it’s super simple – A program monitors a few sensors, and reacts accordingly. As with all Matchfire gadgets, the Robo-Pony is designed to be easy to modify, and as such it uses text-to-speech for all of its speaking. This does lead to the voice being a bit robotic, but it is called Robo-Pony. The pony itself will have typical pony design – Four legs and a head. The legs will be articulated, and the head will be able to look around. The pony has a few sensors, and will do things based on those sensors. It’ll complain if the temperature is too hot, thank you if you sit it upright after falling over, and greet you when you get close – Among other to-be-determined things. Size-wise, it’ll be about the size of a large plush, although I’m still working on the actual physical pony itself.

Additionally, if I can manage to make the pony walk stably, I might even make a remote control for it.

In Conclusion

We’re not dead. We’ve had a few projects – I’ll be putting up a “Work in Progress” page on the site so you can see what we’re working on, and will update when there’s more information.

Additionally, I’ll be putting in the application for vending at BronyCon. I’ll keep you posted – When I know something, It’ll be up here shortly afterwards.

As always, if you have any suggestions for things we could/should make, toss them in the comments below!

The Patreon Pendant!

Good Evening, everyone!

I have some stuff to show you all today. If you’ve looked at our Patreon page, you’ll have noticed our first project was a very ambiguous “LED Pendant.” That ambiguity ends right now.

pendant_smThis is the PCBWeb preview of our LED Pendant. What does the Pendant have? Well, I’m glad you asked.

The LED Pendant has seven Red/Green/Blue LEDs arrayed in an almost-circle around the perimeter of the 40mm diameter board (A tad over 1.5 inches), an FTDI header on the bottom, and an electret microphone just above the ATMega 168PB Microcontroller. The nature of the RGB LEDs allows each LED to make almost any color by combining the three color channels, and the microphone allows it to do some fancy shenanigans. Taking samples of the outside world, it can measure things such as volume and even the frequency of the sound. Just how we’re going to be utilizing this is still to be determined (I have far, FAR too many ideas for it), but out of the box it’ll have something neat and eye-catching. The board is powered by a coin cell battery on the back.

But that’s not all! The FTDI header will allow you to reprogram the device if you’re so inclined. While there are no pins broken out – They’re all used by the LEDs! – I’m sure there’s still plenty of ways you can think of to reprogram the device.

The LED Pendant will be sent to any $25+ Patreon Patrons.

If you have any questions or comments, leave some below or hit us up on Twitter or Facebook!